Add a card manually

Create / edit break

Assign scanned cards

Break Proof

Break Costs & Profitability

Realized Profit — from actual recorded sales

Business Profile

Break Profitability · All Breaks

Margin & Discount Guide

Workflow

Getting started

1. Tap Sign in at the top, enter your email, enter the code sent to your inbox.
2. If this is your shop's first time: tap Create a shop, give it a name.
3. If you're joining a shop someone else already created, they'll invite you — you'll get a real email, and signing in with that same address attaches you to their shop automatically. No code to enter, no separate "join" step.

Once you're in, everything you do is tied to your shop, not just your device. A card scanned on a phone shows up on a desktop signed into the same shop, instantly.

Inviting staff

Once you're signed into a shop, an "+ Invite staff" button appears next to Sign out. Enter their email, and they'll get a real invite email — the moment they sign in with that address, they're automatically added to your shop, no manual step on your end.

If that person already has their own personal CardGauge account, the invite email won't send (Supabase's invite system is built for brand-new accounts) — but they'll still be added to your shop automatically the next time they sign in normally. You'll just want to tell them directly in that case.

Scanning a batch of cards

This is the core workflow, on the Multi-Scan tab.

1. Lay your cards out with real space between them — this matters more than it sounds like it should. Cards touching or nearly touching can get detected as one merged region instead of two. A couple inches of visible table between each card is enough.
2. Tap Detect cards. It'll find each card and show you the crops it captured.
3. Check the crops before moving on. Each one should show the whole card. If a card is flagged "Needs review" — usually because it's too close to the edge of the photo, or the crop looks too small — don't just trust it. Look at it, and either re-take the photo with more margin, or tap Scan anyway if it actually looks fine to you.
4. Tap Capture backs — flip every card where it lies, without sliding them around, and photograph them again from the same distance. Backs are matched to fronts by position, so the cards have to stay where they are. (An earlier version of this said the arrangement didn't matter. It does — moving them is how a back ends up matched to the wrong card.)
5. Tap Scan all detected. Each card gets identified and priced. This happens one at a time, so a big batch takes a little while — that's normal, not stuck.
6. Review the results, then tap Add all to inventory.

A note on pricing labels

You'll see either a green Sold badge (a real sold-comps price), a yellow Mixed comps badge (sold data exists but looks inconsistent, worth a second look), or a yellow Ask only badge (no sold data found, this is an asking price instead). The app won't call an asking price "sold" — if it says sold, it means it.

Tips for a clean scan

• Leave a visible margin of background around every card, even when scanning just one. A card pressed right up to the edge of the photo is the single most common cause of a bad crop.
• Shiny, foil, and refractor cards are harder to detect than plain ones — angle the card slightly to avoid a direct glare, or use softer light.
• If a batch comes back with a wrong count, type the number of cards you expect into the small box before detecting — it'll warn you if it finds fewer than that.

Adding a card manually

Not every card needs a photo. On the Inventory tab, there's an "Add a card manually" form — type in the name, year, set, and whatever else you know, mark it AUTO/PATCH if it applies, set a cost and ask price, and it goes straight into the same shared inventory as a scanned card. Useful for a card you already sold, one from before this tool existed, or just a quick log without pulling out the camera.

Managing inventory

The Inventory tab shows everything in your shop's shared list — from any scan or manual entry, from any staff member signed into your shop.

• Search across everything at once — name, year, set, card number, team, parallel, serial, condition and location all match from the one box. Type a box name and you get that box.
• Filter and sort — Available, Listed or Sold; newest, highest value, most potential profit, or name.
• Team, Cond, Where, Cost, Ask and Status are editable right in the table — tap a field, change it, it saves automatically. Where is the box, case or binder the card is physically in; Cond is whatever grading shorthand your shop already uses.
• Bulk edit — tick rows, or select every card matching your search, then set location, condition or status on all of them at once. Marking cards Sold is deliberately not bulk: every sale needs its own price and fee.
• Remove one card — each row has its own Remove button. Recorded sales and verified break proof are kept.
• Export CSV — everything, including condition, location and the date each card was added.
• Clear inventory wipes everything for your shop — this is permanent, use it deliberately, not by accident.

Break Manager

For running a live break.

1. On the Break Manager tab, name your break, set how many spots, and create it. Each spot also gets a price field — enter what that spot sold for, since this is what drives the profitability numbers below, not a separate typed-in total.
2. For each spot, add a customer name and a team/player.
3. Auto-assign scanned cards pulls from your shop's entire unsold inventory, not just whatever you last scanned — so if a break's cards were photographed across several separate batches over the course of a stream, running this once at the end still picks up all of them, matching each card to the spot with the same team.
4. If a card's team can't be matched automatically, you can assign it manually.

Switching between breaks: a picker at the top of Break Manager lists every break you have run, by name and date, so an older one can still be opened, edited and verified. The one caveat is naming — two breaks run on the same day with the same name look identical in that list, so give them something you will recognise.

Verify & Break Proof

Below the assignment list, each spot shows the actual card thumbnails and serial numbers that got auto-assigned — hold the physical pile next to the screen and check it matches. Tap Mark verified once you've confirmed a spot; it records who verified it and when, right under the count.

Break Proof, further down, turns every verified spot into a real, printable dispute record — card images, names, serial numbers, who verified it, timestamped. This is a genuine snapshot taken the moment you verify, not a live view — if a card is later edited or removed from inventory, the proof for that break stays exactly as it was. A spot that hasn't been verified shows up as an explicit warning in the proof, not silently skipped.

Labels

The Labels tab builds printable price tags straight from your inventory — card name, year/set/number, and price, up to 60 at a time. Tap Build labels from inventory, then Print.

Business Profile & Profitability

On the Business Dashboard, set your shop's real defaults once — target margin, marketplace fee %, and typical shipping cost. Everything below reads from these instead of asking you to re-type them:

• Every new break starts with your fee % and shipping cost already filled in.
• The Margin & Discount Guide defaults to your target margin, and shows — for every priced item — how far you can safely discount it before eating into that margin. An item already priced below your target shows up clearly, not hidden.
• Break Profitability shows every break your shop has run, not just the current one — total revenue, total profit, and which break actually performed best. Per-break, it's Revenue (sum of spot prices) minus Wax, Fees, and Shipping.

Known limitations (beta, being honest about it)

• Card identification is not perfect. The same card can come back with a different year or card number on different scans, especially without a back photo — and a card that copies an old design (a 1991 or 1987 Topps look on a modern card) is often reported with the design year rather than the real one. Check anything flagged, and trust yourself over the app on a card you know.
• Inviting someone who already has their own personal CardGauge account won't send an email — they still get added automatically once they sign in, you'll just need to tell them directly.
• This is real, shared, permanent storage (not a demo) — but it's still beta software. Don't treat it as your only record of anything irreplaceable yet.

Something look wrong? Tell me directly

This beta is genuinely trying to catch real problems before this becomes the real product. If a crop looks wrong, a price looks off, or anything just feels broken — say so, with a screenshot if you can. That's exactly the kind of feedback this beta period is for.